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a few tips

Washstand Make over

1/5/2018

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It was one of those days where you feel like you have won the jackpot with a great haul - until you get it all home and stacked to roof in the garage and you suddenly remember to ask yourself "WHEN DO YOU THINK YOU WILL EVER GET TIME TO DO ALL THESE THINGS...."
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I had been dying to try stamping on tiles with our Iron Orchid Stamps, so this was the perfect project. You can watch this fab You Tube video of these clever ladies using these stamps on tiles here.

​
Our step by step process:

What you need:
- regular paint brush
-Vintage Paints Bondcoat Primer
-Vintage Paints Powder Blue
-Vintage Paints Antique White
-Vintage Paints Old Linen
-Vintage Paints Low Sheen Clearcoat
-Antiquing medium
-IOD Pastoral Toile Stamp
-IOD Decor Ink Provence
-new moulding SW9
-gorilla glue
-sandpaper 180 and 240

Because I  wanted a chippy shabby chic effect, we didn't spend too much time sanding.  A good scrub with Sugar soap and light stand. 
We applied our moulding to the center panel, by first tracing around moulding, then we applied contact adhesive to the back of moulding and inbetween our trace lines on the cabinet.  Once the glue was dry, we attached the moulding to the cabinet.  No need to wait any longer - start painting.

We applied our first coat of Powder blue.  We used rough criss cross strokes to create a texture effect.  We applied 2 coats of Powder Blue.

Next we applied a coat of Antique white again in criss cross strokes.

On the tiled splash back, I applied a coat of Vintage Paints Bondcoat Primer - a primer to allow for best adhesion, especially in a wet areas.  Once dried I applied  2 coats of Old Linen.  Once dry I used the Toile stamp with Provence decor ink.  I could have used a paint instead of an ink, but really enjoy using the inks.  I use a foam stamp pad to apply the ink to the stamps.
*important tip to remember with these stamps is to condition them before use - which means giving them a light sand with a 180 sandpaper.

It took several goes to get the stamps right.  The surface area of the tiles was textured, so the stamps "missed" in areas, which is also part of it.  It did my head in for a bit, until I got the pressure right.  If I didn't like the effect I simply wiped off ink straight away and applied another coat of the Old Linen, gave it blow dry with the hair dryer and stamped again.  


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The base of the wash stand was then sanded with a 240 grit sand paper to reveal the blue beneath.  Getting this just right, takes a bit of practice, always be aware of what goes with what, and make sure you don't over work the drawers and not the door or table top.

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I then had a crisis of what to do next - do we use an antique medium or leave as is......
In the end we watered down our antique medium and made a very light wash.  It was painted over the cracks then wiped off.  How to water down the antique medium - A half cup of water with a half teaspoon of antique medium maybe enough.  Not sure whether it needed it or not, but I think it did take the edge off, mostly around the tiles and highlights the moulding.

We finished with 2 coats of Low sheen clearcoat.   Now all it needs is a lovely shinny new basin.
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Roller Stamps

25/10/2017

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You know when you dying to try something and have so many ideas you don't know where to start, you eventually have to pick something, anything to satisfy your crafting itch....

Our new fitting room curtains where just thing.  Determined to use what I had, I made something that should have been a 10 min job, into a 1 week long affair....

I had a roll of Jute/hessian fabric and rolls of this beautiful embriodered cotton I had been storing(hoarding), neither of which where suitable on their own as curtains - a little see through and the hessian was too plain and stiff...so along came the roller stamp.
After allowing the paint to dry, the cut pieces of hessian were then washed to soften the hessian (makes a real mess of your washing machine!).  

USING the roller like anything took a few goes to get the right feel, having enough paint on the sponge was a big part, it does take a lot of paint to soak the roller.

Worked really well on wood and so easy, would love to have a wall to try it on, so many things you can do, create your own printed fabric, your own wrapping paper, costom made timber pieces which you could turn into anything.
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Here is a sneak at our curtains, to see more you might need to visit us in store...the effect was subtle and slightly washed out, which was what I was after, I think.
The embroidered cotton made a lovely lining and the painted panel on the hessian tied the 2 fabrics together.

Such a great product and so many wanderful things you do with them.

The roller stamps can be found here.  

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Iron Orchid Reusable Moulds

18/7/2017

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Finding time to play with all these wonderful new products is half the battle - the other half of the battle is the part of me that expects to know everything and create the perfect uncomplicated easy and speedy project the FIRST TIME....no suffering, fiddling, researching or start overs....

However the course of true love never did run smoothly.  I LOVE mouldings, love their character, shape, detail, their patina and how they transform...so I had to figure out these new silicon moulds and the various different mediums.

I had to research, fiddle, start over, rethink and learn from others.....

Hear is what I have learnt and important to remember:

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cracking when drying is all part of the authenticity of the these clever moulds
IOD Fleur Mould
recommend gluing moulds when still wet as easier to bond to curved surfaces
Imperfection 
When you look at original plaster moulds you will notice how they crack and chip over time - this is the effect you will get using air dry clay - the air dry clay allows for great detail with out having to bake.  However as it dries it shrinks and cracking can occur.

Mediums
Paper clay, air drying clay, polymer clay, hot glue guns and chocolate(they are food safe)....can all be used in these moulds.  I used the air drying clay options.
The IOD paper clay seems to crack abit more than the Jovi air dry clay.  IOD have done this on purpose to their clay.  Personal preference at the end of the day. The Jovi clay is really good value and would be a good place to start.
Working with clay
Delicate fingers and patience.  Having used our ready made latex moulds for years, working with the clay is very different.  In truth these clay moulds would be more reminiscent of the original craftsman's battles and skills than our latex.  Don't be in a rush.
  1. work the clay in your fingers before placing in the moulds
  2. resist over filling the moulds (my first mistake), keep the clay below the edges, it makes for easier removing.  You can level off your excess clay with a knife - remember you want a flat surface as this helps with less cracking etc
  3. some mould shapes are easier to use than others, if it separates or breaks when removing, try again...
  4. don't be too fussy about perfect edges - alot of this will disappear under the paint
  5. another idea is to let the moulds dry in the moulding trays before removing - how patient you are will be the key....you can of course put them in the oven to dry..... 
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work clay between fingers
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smooth off with a knife
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bend mould to reveal moulding - imperfection exists - and thats OK!
Application
There isn't much info on what glue to use, but I have been using a wood glue as suggested.  I prefer applying the moulds when they are still wet. You need to remember that as your moulding dries it will shrink slightly.  It pays to be near by during this process unless you too impatient like me and use a hair dryer.  As it dries it will lift off your surface, but gently keep tapping it down and pressing the edges to allow it to bond to surface, Again don't be too fussy as the gaps will disappear under the paint.  
If you wait until the moulds are dry, you need to remember that they will no longer be flexible, but hard and more delicate.  Think about how you want to use them or where you want to apply them.  
I also painted them while they were still wet, which seemed to be fine, I used a hair dryer inbetween coats.
Cleaning
Easy clean up with water.  I used an old toothbrush to get into the little cracks, works really well
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if you want to analysis you will notice some imperfection I am sure - but resist - admire from a distance
why use these moulds 
Well its slightly addictive....but really satisfying making the moulds from scratch.  Once you get going, you suddenly realise the endless possibilities.  These moulds are so cost effective when you need a few moulds, great for gift making and framing.  If you have a girlfriend, why not each buy one, you can share them around as they wear really well.  
If you are on facebook, I recommend following the Iron Orchid Designs, they really do some wonderful things and not too "crafty" - wait until you see their stamps....the other thing I have been playing with....the trick to all of this is to actually do the things you love, not just pin them to your board or save them for "when you have time" - there is NO time for anything anymore - you have to carve out time to refresh your soul and do the things you love....

IOD Mould - Baroque 3

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Baroque 4

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Escucheons 2

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Moulding 1

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Object Labels 1

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Rustic Fleur

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Louis

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Antoinette

NZ$34.50
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IOD Paper Clay - for reusable moulds

NZ$11.90
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Jovi Air Hardening Clay - 500gm

NZ$7.50
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IOD Mould - Large Fleurish

NZ$34.50
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IOD Mould - Renaissance

NZ$34.50
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Creating a patina using a wood stain

4/7/2017

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Creating an aged or patina effect can be done in hundred different ways...

Personal preference and what you have in your garage are good options to start with.   Here we have used Vintage Paints new range of wood stains.  There is a range of colours, these are water based stains which can be used on bare timber to enrich the grain or over paint to create a patina (aged worn effect).

What you need:
stain - Vintage Paints Dark Oak Stain
rags (lint free)
bowl of water (like a 2L ice cream tub)
paint brush
no disruption - really important to keep your rhythm up and maintain a consistent drying temperature, so don't do half in the morning and then the other half later, the weather can change and affect your drying time and you will end up with different finishes - sounds a bit ridiculous, but believe me its true... 

The longer you leave the stain the harder it is to move and darker it will stain.  

TIP

start on the back or underneath to get an idea of how dark and how fast it is drying on your painted surface.

To start
​wipe on with cloth or paint brush - option here to wait a few seconds
if using over a light colour, cream or white, I would paint an area and pretty much wipe off immediately with a clean dry cloth.
if it looks too dark for you, simply dampen your cloth and wipe over surface staight away, the more you rub the more will come off

and that is it...

you have the option to now seal by means of wax or a clearcoat or simply leave as is and allow time and wear to soften finish.

 TIP
if you are staining bare wood, sealing with a clearcoat polyurethane is recommended to ensure a long lasting colour.
French Round Dining Table
Dark oak stain on the top of this table, and a watered down rub of the stain over the painted side and base - completed with a semi gloss clearcoat
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Dark stain over toasted almond - chairs were scratched, worn and weathered - this allows for a great patina as the stain sits in the grooves
Art deco drawers
Dark oak stain over these drawer fronts completed with a low sheen clearcoat

Vintage Stain

NZ$26.50
Vintage stain is a waterbased wiping stain available in 6 tints.

It can be wiped onto bare timber to change base colour, or used over painted surfaces for antiquing effects.

Applied with a brush or cloth.  When dry seal with vintage clearcoat.
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Toasted Almond

NZ$13.50 - NZ$63.50
Toasted Almond is a sweet beige brown which is warm and soft. Its velvety finish calms and soothes, yet the little pop of colour will give interest and dimension. Toasted Almond works well with Classic White  or Antique White.  

Voodoo Molly Vintage Paint  is a special water-based acrylic paint that is designed to make furniture painting fun and hassle free. The no stripping, no undercoat formula will save you time, money and your sanity!
  • No stripping, no undercoat
  • Touch dry 30mins, re-coat 60mins
  • Durable, cleanable
  • Satin sheen
  • Interior or exterior
  • Water based
Sheen options: 
  • Matt: Add Vintage Chalk 
  • Soft sheen: Use Vintage Wax
  • Satin: Just Vintage Paint
  • Semi-gloss: 1 coat Vintage Clearcoat
  • Gloss: 2-3 coats Vintage Clearcoat
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    Vintage Wax 250 ml

    NZ$32.50
    Vintage Wax is made from 100% natural ingredients including beeswax and essential oils. It can be safely used on timber, antiques, Vintage Paint,  Vintage Chalk, chalk paint, milk paint, leather, children's furniture and toys.

    Vintage Wax is non-yellowing so can be safely used on white paint and white leather. It will nourish and waterproof, creating a soft, natural shine. 
    • 100% natural ingredients
    • Soft wax
    • Eco friendly
    • Beeswax base
    • For wood, paint, leather
    • Non-yellowing
    • Easy to apply and buff
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    Vintage Paints Clearcoat

    NZ$29.00 - NZ$46.50

    Voodoo Molly Vintage Clearcoat is a non-yellowing, water-based polyurethane varnish. 

    It can be used on bare timber, Voodoo Molly Vintage Paint or Voodoo Molly Vintage Chalk . 

    It is a superior product that is extremely durable and has a soft semi-gloss finish or use the gloss for a high sheen finish

    ​2 hour recoat
    • 3 day full cure
    • Brush or spray application
    • For furniture, tabletops, floors
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      Author

      Hi, this is Tammy (and Roger) with a few tips on painting furniture, crafty stuff and some of our lovely products...

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    Grace and Glory | The Living Room Collective | 1131 Amohau Street, Rotorua, 3010, New Zealand | shop@livingroomcollective.com| 07 460 1056
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      • Hardware, Bathroom, Embellishments >
        • Knobs and Handles
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      • Vintage Paints and Products >
        • Buy Vintage Paint
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        • Vintage BondCoat Primer
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      • Mouldings >
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        • Corners
        • Drops
        • Fleur de Lis
        • Legs
        • Pediments
        • Rosettes
        • Scrolls
        • Swags
        • Trims
      • IOD Transfers
      • IOD Resuable Moulds
      • IOD Stamps
      • Stencils
      • Craft & Painting Supplies
      • Wallpaper
    • Mouldings
      • About Mouldings
      • Buy Mouldings
      • Ideas
      • Pelmets and Fire Surrounds Ideas
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      • Review
    • Workshops